Ficus elastica ‘Burgundy 10” (4ft wide)

Ficus elastica, commonly called rubber tree, is a tropical tree native to Southeast Asia known for its large, thick, glossy leaves that range from deep green to burgundy or variegated forms. What makes this plant special is its bold, upright growth and oversized foliage that creates a strong, clean, architectural statement as it grows into a tall indoor tree.

Light drives leaf size, color, and structure. Place it in an east or south-facing window where it gets bright, consistent light without prolonged harsh sun sitting on the leaves. Under grow lights, use 5000K–6500K placed 8–12 inches from the top of the plant. In lower light, new leaves come in smaller and the plant can become leggy. Strong light keeps the leaves larger, thicker, and more closely spaced along the stem.

Watering should stay balanced and steady. Allow the soil to dry about halfway down before watering, then water thoroughly and let it drain, using a mix of succulent soil, perlite, and orchid bark for airflow. This plant signals clearly—if leaves droop slightly and feel less firm, it’s ready for water. If lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is still wet, the roots are staying too saturated. Brown spots or leaf drop can also happen with sudden environmental changes, not just watering.

For large indoor trees, light isn’t optional—it’s what controls size, structure, and stability. Most people underestimate how much they actually need.

Natural light setup (this is your baseline):
Place large trees in south or east-facing windows whenever possible. South is strongest and supports real growth, east is softer but still consistent. Distance matters:

• 0–2 ft from south window = strong growth, larger leaves
• 2–5 ft = moderate growth, maintenance mode
• Anything beyond that = survival, not thriving
  North-facing windows will not support large trees long term unless supplemented.

Grow light setup (this is where you win):
Use 5000K–6500K lights placed 8–12 inches above the canopy. For large trees, one light is usually not enough—you need coverage across the top, not just a spotlight. Think of it like replacing the sun: wide, even light across the entire plant keeps growth balanced and prevents leaning.

Plant-specific signals (this is the part most people miss):

• Leaning hard to one side = uneven light, rotate or widen coverage
• Leaves getting smaller as it grows = not enough light intensity
• Dropping lower leaves consistently = light not reaching the base
• Long gaps between leaves (stretching) = needs stronger or closer light
• Top looks good, bottom is thinning = classic overhead-only light problem